Safari at the Maasai Mara

Even though going on a safari had always been a goal of mine, I don't think any amount of research could have prepared us for the magnitude of the experience. Over the next 2 1/2 days we would have five drives into the Mara to observe the wildlife in their natural habitat. The best time to see the animals is early in the morning (6:30am) or late in the afternoon (3:30 pm). Mid date the animals are more sedate and enjoying siestas in the heat of the day. So each morning the Sentinal staff brought us hot water for washing as part of our early morning wake-up call. At 6:30 we were dressed in warm clothes, as it gets cold driving around in open sided vehicles at that time of the morning, and ready to watch the sunrise and search for the animals. Lions, cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, hippos, buffalo, and lots of wildebeest just to name a few. For the next 3 1/2 hours we would be totally amazed as the animals roamed the land in search of food and water. They say " a picture is worth a thousand words" and I totally believe in this case it is true. We were assigned two guides for our time in the Mara, who did an amazing job at locating the animals and ensuring we were comfortable throughout our time on safari. They did an excellent job at locating spectacular animal sightings and on the second morning provided a breakfast picnic in the wildlife reserve, just a short distance from roaming zebras, buffalo and wildebeest. Just to put it in perspective the Maasai Mara National Reserve is in south-west Kenya and expands over 1512 sq. km. I often wondered how our guides knew where to go and how we didn't get lost. The roads weren't much more than dirt paths, crossing rivers, twisting and turning throughout the massive countryside. In the afternoon we would stop beside the river to take in the activities of the baboons and noises of the hippos while enjoying a few refreshments. Watching nature take its course and the ensuing cycle of life was fascinating. We watched as the crocodiles waited patiently for the zebras to attempt to cross the river. we watched as a pride of lions strategically circle a buffalo in attempt to take it down, we watched the thousands of wildebeest travel across the country as they migrated from the Serengeti National Reserve, crossing the Mara River to the greener pastures of the Maasai Mara. We watched hippos roll in the mud almost totally camouflaged from view. We watched the cheetahs hunt their prey as they perched on a small hill. Fortunately or unfortunately for us we never witnessed a successful attack. It is one of those things in nature you want to see but you are still routing for the hunted to escape. We did come upon a pride of lions who were feasting on the mornings catch, which the scavengers stood back and watched waiting for any scraps that might be left. When we weren't on safari we were enjoying the comforts of Sentinal Mara Camp. The whole experience was surreal and going to a zoo while never quite be the same.

On the Road Again

After spending three and a half days in Bungoma it was time to hit the road again. We had lots of country to see and a long way to travel over the next two days. Our first destination was Rondo Retreat. The name “Rondo” comes from “Kavirondo”, the area of Western Kenya around Lake Victoria. Rondo also means “All Round”, an all round retreat of wholeness for body, soul and spirit in the Kakamega Rain Forest. The retreat has a very interesting history with even some Canadian impact. I am taking the liberty to plagiarize a few interesting facts straight from their website. Bob Turton, from South Africa, came to Kenya to seek his fortune in the Kakamega Gold Rush. When that did not “pan out” he turned to timber, running a sawmill, but practicing the sustainable forest policy of the colonial era. One day the sawmill received an order for an Elgon Olive (teak). Bob was informed by his workers of an especially fine specimen in the forest nearby. His wife, on seeing the tree, declared that it should not be cut down, rather that she must have her house built facing it. Bob did just that and made a home and garden for themselves, deep in the forest. The Main House and Guest Cottage were completed in 1948. Bob’s first wife, Anita, a keen gardener, laid out a magnificent garden, beneath an overarching cathedral of trees, with the help of an army of gardeners. Bob donated Rondo to the NCCK for use as a Youth Centre. Rondo was too isolated for the NCCK to manage and put to good use so it gradually reverted to bush, the house deteriorated until it was in rack and ruin and the beauty of the garden was gone. In 1966 the Founder of Trinity Fellowship, Canon Cuthbert Dawkins, being at that time also on the Board of the NCCK, offered to take Rondo over as a Youth Camp for the Trinity Fellowship. Youth work being T.F.’s main thrust, it was decided to start a small Farmer’s Training Centre to equip school leavers with basic agricultural skills. A couple from Canada, Jim and Bernice Gale, were invited to head up this project. We should have known better but the monkeys ravaged whatever was grown, so the poor Gales were frustrated in accomplishing this task. Also due to its remoteness and the lack of funding they had to abandon the project after a couple of years. They put their all into the work and had the best of intentions, living in exceedingly primitive conditions – real pioneer missionaries – but the jungle won! Having relinquished Rondo in 1975 in favour of the Orphanage, Trinity Fellowship found itself once again in possession of Rondo in 1986, but now with the express purpose of running a Retreat Centre. Were it not for Rondo’s presence in the Forest and its efforts of conservation and reforestation with thousands of trees little or none of the virgin forest in the surrounds would be left. Over the years numerous individuals have poured their hearts and lives into Rondo creating this haven in such idyllic surroundings, enabling Rondo to fulfill its role of providing a place of peace and rest for many to enjoy. After a two hour drive we arrived at Rondo. Stepping out of the car you immediately feel a sense of peace and relaxation. Tea and cake would be served on the veranda at 3. In the meantime we would enjoy the scenery, go for a short hike, have a few games of Scrabble and just relax as we watched the monkeys play in the trees. An afternoon with no phones or internet, just great conversation, laughter and serenity. As we sat there during an afternoon rain shower it brought back great memories of my childhood being on the veranda at the beach playing cards or Rummoli with our grandparents and relatives. It was early to bed after an amazing dinner. Tomorrow would be a LONG drive to the Maasai Mara game reserve. It turned out we really had no idea how long it was going to be. The first three hours went quite smoothly, passing through the cities of Kisumu and Kisii. A half hour past Kasii the road became a dirt road with more potholes, bumps and challenges than our poor car could handle, plus we really weren't a 100% sure where we were going from this point. Continuing on the car started to make a some weird sounds. Then is slipped out of gear and Rodgers was unable to keep it going. We were going to need help. Fortunately I had the phone number of the resort we were going to and was able to call and ask them to come and get us. Rodgers was able to connect with his mechanic in Kisii who would come check the car out. Two hours later both a Range Rover from our camp and the mechanic showed up. All would be fine. Rodgers got his car fixed and was back in Bungoma early that evening and we could sit back and enjoy the rest of the trip to the Mara. Bumpy and dusty as it was. I always live by the motto that things happen for a reason and I truly think breaking down where we did was meant to be. There is no way Rodgers car would have made it much further without really breaking down. The road was that bad. I would have been stressed the entire way wondering if we were going the right way. While we had directions, they were not totally clear and it was a long way between checkpoints. Yes things happen for a reason. About seven hours after we had left Rondo we finally arrived at Sentinal Mara Camp. We were greeted by the staff dressed in their native attire and provided hot, wet facecloths and cold juice. We were so happy to be here and first impressions totally exceeded our expectations. YES we were staying in tents, eating in tents, relaxing in tents on the side of the Mara River. They were tents like I have never experienced before. 5 Star all the way!! The service was outstanding with attention to every last detail. The food prepared by the chef in camp exceeded dinners I have had in 5 star restaurant and the ambience was incredible. Dinner under the stars listening to the hippos playing in the river. Maasai guards to escort us to our tents at night and bring us hot water in the mornings. All the comforts of home served up in tents. Not just any tents. Tents with private washrooms and luxurious beds. Hot water bottles tucked in our beds at night. Life is good and I definitely felt spoiled.

Bungoma

The last item on the agenda for Bungoma was to introduce Jenn and Skylar to the workings of One Acre Fund. Taking Jenn and Skylar to a business meeting facilitated in a mixture of English and Swahili would be very entertaining. The bases of the meeting was no different than any other business planning meeting I have ever attended. Set the goals for the new year, develop a plan, establish targets and time commitments, and ensure everyone has a clear understanding of what needs to be done before they leave the meeting. What was different in this meeting was the interaction between the staff having fun as they publically tested each other on their understanding of the instructions and taking a break during the meeting for song. They took the time to stand, sing, and clap a motivational song. Don't ask me what it was about, as it was all in Swahili, but the tune and the beat where captivating and we joined in as best as we could. Part way through the meeting it was time for us to go and several members of the staff came to thank us for visiting them and participating in their meeting. We felt so very welcomed. I wonder if Jenn will incorporate some singing and dancing segments in her next business meeting. Probably not but it was fun and very appropriate here. For some reason we didn't get any pictures. I think we felt it would be imposing in this setting. After lunch we visited the dairy research facility. One Acre Fund does extensive research on what type of feed, vaccinations, and breeds of animals (cows and chickens) will produce the best results and help maximize the farmer's income. A major component of One Acre Funds' support to farmers is training and education. Using quality seed, fertilizer, proper planting and harvesting techniques farmers have been able to at least double their harvests and family income. Nothing makes a farmer prouder than being able to feed his family the entire year and have enough money for school fees. Since I didn't seem to capture any pictures of the dairy farm or business meeting, I just have to add a few more pictures of the kids. They are just so cute!

Skylar Goes to School In Africa

The schools in rural Kenya are so very different than the schools in North America. Each school has its own uniform, so no one has to worry about what outfit to wear, what brand their jeans are or whether they will fit in. Children only need to be neat and clean, and wear some sort of footwear. The classrooms have open windows for air conditioning and two to three children sit at each desk. Classes are taught on chalkboards painted on the wall and there are no signs of computers or electronics in any of the elementary school rooms. Yet surprising enough the children seem happy! How could a young man educated in the Canadian education system even begin to relate? To answer this we needed to visit a school in the Bungoma community. Fortunately we were able to connect with Kibabii Academy, who invited us with huge enthusiasm to visit their school. Loaded up with soccer balls, pencils and crayons we hired a taxi to drive us out to the school, where the head mistress greeted us with open arms. This also would not happen in Canada, where everyone visiting a school needs clearance just to enter the school. Kibabii Academy is a private school in Bungoma County for children 3 to 10 years of age. We had arrived just in time for tea (approximately 10:00am) and the children were anxious to get outside and play, but first they would entertain us. Forming a circle the older children led the group in several songs complete with actions. To say the least, the children were absolutely adorable! Once they were done it was a made dash to the outhouse, then to wash their hands and grab a cup of hot tea before they started to play. pushing tires around the yard, playing tag or simply sitting, watching and giggling at the wazungas (white people). The soccer balls were a great hit. One for the boys and one for the girls. Within minutes the children had taken off their shoes and were charging around the yard after the balls. Apparently it is easier to run in bare feet than encumbered by shoes. Several weeks later I met one of the parents, who told me how very happy she was that we had visited the school. Her daughter had been full of stories of the people from Canada who visited their school and brought them gifts.

What To Do In Bungoma

Excited that Jenn and Skylar were finally in Bungoma, I wanted to show them all the town had to offer. Its quaint characteristics, relaxing atmosphere and friendliness. This is a town where everyone stops to say hello as you walk down the street. Being a very visible minority in the town everyone wants to grab your attention for a minute as you walk by, especially the little children. It never seizes to make me smile when young children run out from their homes or school yards to say "hello, how are you?" as you pass by. The boda (bicycle taxis)drivers rush to offer their services as soon as I enter the street. Yes, I know that they want my business/ money but they are so friendly about it. I just can't help but laugh and smile as they jockey to get my attention. So where would we take Jenn and Sky? Our favorite hangout - Shenanigans. The bar that Randy and 6 other guys opened in March of 2015. Then of course one of Jenn's favorite past times, we definitely needed to do some shopping. So a walk into town to the market we would go for a few groceries and the makings of a new dress. The tailor quickly took our measurements and committed to having the two outfits done within a week. Of course after every good shopping trip, stopping for a refreshment and something to eat is a must. So we were off to our favorite restaurant for roasted goat. We were so excited to introduce Jenn and Sky to this great cuisine but I am not sure they were all that impressed. Honestly BBQ'd meat and salt, carved at the table, how could you not be thrilled. One afternoon we went for a drive through town and into neighbouring communities as we made our way to Chetambe Falls. The roads were extremely bumpy and dusty, but the trip was well worth it. Where the water comes from I am not sure. Here in the middle of nowhere is an amazing waterfalls. A great place to climb the rocks, relax and take in the view.

Heading to Bungoma

From Jinja we would travel to Bungoma, Kenya. I was really excited to take Jenn and Sky to the Western Kenyan town we call home. Well at least that is where we keep our belongings.  I had only really been in Bungoma for 5 weeks so far this year but none the less it is our African home base. 

The drive from Jinja to Bungoma is about 2 to 3 hours depending on how long it takes to cross the Ugandan/ Kenyan border.  The border crossing and process is quite the ordeal and honestly I would have had no idea on where to go had we been on our own. Upon reaching the Ugandan border our driver zigzagged through the maze of trucks and cars trying to move forward. Often going down the wrong side of the road to try and get around the idling trucks. A few times we had to back up to get out of the way of semis going in the opposite direction. Then we would charge forward again trying to wind our way to the Uganda passport office. Once the car was parked we jumped out in attempt to beat the lineup of truck drivers we had just passed queuing up at the passport clearance office. Uganda has a brand new building and the sole clerk processed the lineup of people trying to enter or leave Uganda fairly quickly.

Once we were all cleared to leave Uganda, we hopped back into the car and headed over the border to the Kenya office. A rough old kiosk was the check-in counter for Kenya. After some time Jenn and Skylar were granted visas we were back in the car heading to Bungoma.  On both sides of the border are miles and miles of semi-trucks lined up on both sides of the road attempting to cross the border. We were told it can take days for them to get through. Thank goodness as a car we were able to maneuver through the line and clear customs in a few hours. I simply can't imagine what the ordeal/frustration must be like for men trying to make a living as truck drivers. Although it just seems to be accepted as part of the job.

Once through both borders, it should be easy sailing to Bungoma.  However at one point the road was under construction and for a while we were able to drive on the new tarmac, but that quickly came to an end and we needed to get down to the old road. The median between the two roads was a good sized ditch, but everyone thought we should be able to drive through. Rodgers would need to maneuver the car just right to get across without getting stuck. Unfortunately, as careful as he was the nose of the car hit the ground at such an angle that it was unable to drive through and we were stuck.  Not to worry though, Kenyans are very resourceful people. 10 men from other vehicles on the road, jumped out and together they lifted the front of the car up, out of the ditch and onto the road. Less than 5 minutes later we were all back in the car and heading for Bungoma. As crazy as the whole ordeal was; it was so cool.

Next stop- Marell compound, Bungoma.

We would spend the next three and a half days exploring the sites of Bungoma.