A Homestay

Words can't describe the beauty of Taquile Island or the sights we were about to see as we travelled to the small community on the peninsula where we would spend the evening with a family of the village. Upon arriving at the village each member of our tour group was introduced to their host family. Emilda (Mama) greeted us with open arms and a big hug. Then she proceeded to lead us up the hill to her home. It was quite the hike and we were both puffing as reached our home for the evening. Emilda showed us to the guest room that had been made especially for hosting Gap Adventures guests and the very modern Bano. Then Emilda introduced us to her 10 year old son Romulo, who would take us down to the school for a game of soccer. Along the way Romulo pointed out each animal and tried to teach us the Spanish and Aymara words for them. If we didn't pronounce it correctly he would repeat the word until we got it right. Funny thing Donkey was Donkey in all three languages.

At the school a soccer game between the tourist and the locals took place. After feeling a bit sorry for the tourists a few locals were designated to change teams. I am not sure that really helped though. The locals dressed in sandals and dress pants surely had the advantage over our players dressed in hiking boots or runners and shorts. The playing field was a cement courtyard outside the school so I am sure from an advantage point we should have had it. So in the end we had to blame the elevation for our poor performance. As darkness started to approach the score was 3 all and we finally had to call it quits. Just to clarify I sat on the sidelines taking pictures for everyone, while Randy worked up a sweat representing the Coutts family on the soccer team.

Once the game was declared a tie. It was time to dance. Each member of our group was dressed by their host family in the traditional dress of the village. Then four couples from the villages demonstrated the dance that we would be required to do after they finished. While the dance was a simple three step, it also involved walking in a line across from your partner and swinging a string on pompoms. FOur us not so coordinated tourist it did seem to be a bit complicated but so much fun.. WHen we had completed our lesson, 10 small children then demonstated their version of the dance for us. Just in case we wondered how difficult it should be..lol. The children were adorable and extremely energetic about their performance. Then just to make sure we got it each child grabbed one of us and the dance started again. My partner was maybe five years old and really into the dance. Holding my hands and swinging our arms back and forth for all he was worth as we shuffled around the floor. That was until he was distracted by the other children playing on the sidelines. He would start to move in the direction of the children and then remember that he was supposed to be dancing and he would get back into it, pumping our arms for all he was worth. It was so funny and cute.

Our dance lesson done it was time to head back to our home for dinner. The big question was "did we want to eat in the kitchen with the families?" Of course everyone stated, but they double checked just to be sure. I wonder why anyone wouldn't want that as part of the experience, but my impression was that not all tourists did.

Each room of the house was a separate building made of adobe brick. The kitchen was very simple with a large clay stove in one corner. Pots for cooking lined the top of the stove and the fire was kept burning with wood. Mama sat by the stove and dished out the food to bowls her daughter Luz Marie held. Dinner was for the five of us. Luz Marie, Romulo, Randy and I sat at a small wooden table with benches on two sides. Mama ate her dinner from her spot by the stove. First we had a very large bowl of vegetable soup, where the main ingredient was potato. It was very tasty but much more than I could eat. Then we received a plated of rice covered by another potato based stew. Again very tasty, but filling. We had been advised we would be served a vegetarian meal. Not because it is a vegetarian community as Mama had pork cooking on the stove.

Not able to eat my entire dinner I tried to communicate through sign language that I was very full, touching the top of my head. All of a sudden Luz Marie and Romulo were speaking quickly and Romulo was pushing his sister to go somewhere. A few minutes later she comes back with a big bag of coca leaves. I quickly realized they thought I was saying I had a headache and were bringing me the native remedy. After saying no, no, a second attempt to show I was full worked much better. Pat the tummy and I slowly raised my hand to my head. E|veryone immediately burst into laughter.

The challenge was communication. We were given a small list of English words and there translations prior to arriving at the village, but it certainly wasn't enough to carry on a lenghty conversation. Thank goodness the children were learning some English in school and we had a few basic Spanish words in our vocabulary from out multiple trips to Mexico. Mama asked how old we were and we learned she was 44 but looked way older. Luz Marie told us her age, which I interpreted to be 16. Quietly Romulo corrected me saying 17 under his breathe. What next? Then Romulo built a paper boat, so Randy showed him how to build a paper plane. He either already knew or learned very quickly. A few minutes later we were having plane races across the kitchen. It was pitch black outside and Mama was starting to yawn so we though we would be polite and head off to our room for the night. Only when we we back in our room did we realize it was only 7:10pm. Early even for us but we laughed and crawled into bed. Surprisingly with all the fresh air and high elevation we were asleep in minutes.

Shortly after 5:00am we could hear Mama up preparing for the day. She was serving us breakfast before we left the island that morning. Fresh bread, although more like a biscuit, great jam and 2 hard boiled eggs. We enjoyed breakfast with the family and then Romula took us for a small walk around the hill where we admired the view. The hill looks over Lake Titikaka and Romulo pointed out all the neighbouring islands around the lake. He was very proud of the animals they owned and introduced us to his donkey, the 7 baby pigs, and the 2 baby goats. We were later to learn that the 2 baby goats (1 male,1 female) are the only goats on the island, which accounted for why Mama and Luz Marie where feeding them milk from a baby bottle during supper and breakfast. When we first arrived in the kitchen for supper one goat was trying to take our spot as he jumped on the table. He was quickly scooted off but I think he may have been there before. It was so funny and we laughed as Mama yelled at him.

It was time to leave the island and Luz Marie carrying one of the goats, and Romulo led us back down the hill to the dock. The hosting families made a line so each of the guest could shake thier hands and thank them for their hospitaliy. Luz Marie at the end of the line gave both Randy and I a big hug and we both found ourselves with tears running down our faces as we boarded the boat. We had been very emotionally moved by the entire experience, the genuine kindness and hospitality of our hosts. During our supper with Mama and her family we took several pictures and plan to send them and a small camera to them once we get home.

What an experience! One I am sure we will never forget!

8:15am and we are all back on the boat heading to Reed Islands (floating Islands). I really have no idea what to expect. So we sat back and enjoyed the hour ride to the islands. Arrivng at the islands my mouth simply drops in awe, as all you can see is homes, boats, buildings and islands made from reeds that grow in the lake. I have never seen anything like it. Our boat docks at one island and as we disembark Mary introduces herself and says after the presentation she will take us to her home. Then we are directed to the center of the island where benches made from reeds are placed for us to sit. Henry our guide and a local man then proceed to demonstrate how the islands are made and anchored in the lake. A total of 2000 residents call the islands home. The women make their livings selling their crafts to the tourist. Beautful tapastries of all sizes and shapes. Most tell the story of the islands. Yes we bought 2.

After the demonstration, Mary takes us to her home and dresses us up in the tradional clothing, they all appear to wear every day. The home has 2 beds and a small bench in it. There are hooks for hanging their clothes and little else, except for the small tv and a solar powered generator. Outside the home is a small teepee style hut set up for cooking. Interesting enough they have a small 2 burner propane stove in it and several pots and pans. This island consists of about 4 homes, and a kindergarden school. Children come from several of the floating islands to attend the school. Then it is time to board a boat that looks looks very much like a viking boat with a Spanish influence completely made from the reeds. As we pushed off the women of the island stood on the edge of the island and sang to us. Our group is mostly Canadian so they started out with Alloietta, followed by twinkle twinkle little star and a few other childrens songs. It was so cute and apparent that they had discovered how to impress the tourists. Two people from our island ( one man and one young woman) rowed us around the channel for about 30 minutes and then we head backed to our boat that would take us back to Puno.

I would have never imagined a complete island built on a lake made completely of reeds. Work for the men is maintaining the island as the reeds dry out and need to constantly be replaced. The woman do the cooking , sewing and entertaining of the tourists. Such a simple, basic life but everyone seemed extremely happy and proud.

Back in Puno by noon, we had lots of time to explore. The group decided we would climb the 800 steps to the statue of the Condor perched at the top of the mountain overlooking the town. Slow a steady was the approach. Everything in Puno is uphill so even before reaching the staircase we had climbed uphill for about 30 minutes. The view was worth it. From the lookout you could see the entire town as it spread across the mountainside, perching over Lake Titikaka. The lake is really magnificant. with more time we decided to walk across the mountain to the statue of an Inca Warrior. The path to the Inca was all downhill so much easier on our hearts, but through a poorer part of town for sure. It was broad daylight and there was 7 of us so we felt quite safe. The path down was quite steep but we all made it back to the core of town with no problems.

With 3 hours until dinner we headed to a small pub for a refreshment and a few games of pool. All I can say is I was absolutely no help to Randy when it was our turn, but we did end up having 3 very close games. Everyone was very patient with me as I had to learn how to hold the cue never mind hit the ball. At least I understand physic and angles.lol. A very fun afternoon.

Dinner that evening was at a local Pizzeria. Good but we have had better. Tonight Peru played Paraguay in the World Cup soccer qualifiers and we found ourselves in a Puno sports bar, cheering for Peru. The bar was 2 stories, where you climbed a small set off stairs to a floor with pillows all along the walls to sit on and watch the TV seen through an open railing into the main floor of the pub. There is nothing better than to be sitting in a country watching their soccer team dominate and win the game. Positive energy exploded onto the streets as the Peruvians celebrated the win. For us it was time to head back to our hotel for bed. Tomorrow morning would come too soon!

The last 2 days seems totally surreal. From the visit to Taquile Island, the home stay and the visit to Reed Island, it is hard to believe that people are so poor and live such primitive lifestyles in this day and age of technology but still seem to be so very, very happy! I wonder who has it right?